http://rutracker.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2533174 Improve your climbing with Neil Gresham
Конспектик по технике из первой части.
1. Technique. Efficiency, less effort. Flow (plan?). Pace. Footwork.
a) Handholds. Contact strength.
* crimp
* half crimp
* hang
* sloper
* pinch
* cupping
* combos
* undercut
* side pull + reverse
b) Footholds. Asymmetric shoes, clean.
* edging
* smearing
- smooth, steady pressure
- lean back
- soft shoes
* pockets
* polished footholds
Slow down before putting foot. Attention to pivot.
* no scuffing
* no repositioning
* no 'overtest'
2. Technique (steep walls). No parallel hips. Push the leg. Straight arms. Right angle arms.
(laybacking, bridging?)
* twistlock
- compare to figure 4
- usable with big holds
* ouside edge
- form tripod
- leg underneath
- the utility move
If out of sequence, do not change foot, use
* flag
- free leg in front
- behind (hips are parallel)
For two footholds
* drop knee (egyptian)
- pay attention to pivot
- knee passes elbow
* frog - turn knees out
* heel hooks - more force
* toe hook
* heel toe
* bicyling
* knee bar
* 3d climbing - if legs fall, swing back with momentum
* cutting loose - no both legs, one by one
* dead pointing - center of mass under hold, sync
* rock over
* dyno
3. Training. Plan.
* strength
- fingers (contact strength)
- arms
* power
* body tension (abs?)
* endurance
* mentality