http://rutracker.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2533174 Improve your climbing with Neil Gresham

Конспектик по технике из первой части.

1. Technique. Efficiency, less effort. Flow (plan?). Pace. Footwork.

a) Handholds. Contact strength.

* crimp
* half crimp
* hang
* sloper
* pinch
* cupping
* combos
* undercut
* side pull + reverse

b) Footholds. Asymmetric shoes, clean.

* edging
* smearing
- smooth, steady pressure
- lean back
- soft shoes
* pockets
* polished footholds

Slow down before putting foot. Attention to pivot.
* no scuffing
* no repositioning
* no 'overtest'

2. Technique (steep walls). No parallel hips. Push the leg. Straight arms. Right angle arms.

(laybacking, bridging?)

* twistlock
- compare to figure 4
- usable with big holds

* ouside edge
- form tripod
- leg underneath
- the utility move

If out of sequence, do not change foot, use
* flag
- free leg in front
- behind (hips are parallel)

For two footholds
* drop knee (egyptian)
- pay attention to pivot
- knee passes elbow

* frog - turn knees out
* heel hooks - more force
* toe hook
* heel toe
* bicyling
* knee bar
* 3d climbing - if legs fall, swing back with momentum
* cutting loose - no both legs, one by one
* dead pointing - center of mass under hold, sync
* rock over
* dyno

3. Training. Plan.

* strength
- fingers (contact strength)
- arms
* power
* body tension (abs?)
* endurance
* mentality